Tuesday 6 November 2007

Wot no Yak attack?

After 5 days on a train crossing Siberia on a diet of cuppa soup and instant noodles reaching Ulaan Baatar was utterly delightful...and for those who have been to UB, you will realise I am referring to being able to shower at last and not the city itself which pretty much lives up to the guide books comment "a scar on the Mongolian countryside"..... however that said, Mongolia has far than exceeded my expectations, especially the countryside miles away from UB. I arrived during the day time and it was already -16 degrees (yes minus 16) and has kinda just got colder ever since....really pleased for the last minute purchase of M&S thermals before I left London!!! It was all OK until I decided to go horse riding yesterday afternoon, which was a fantastic way to experience the Mongolian countryside, I even managed to have some fresh cows milk yogurt with a real live nomad family in their ger! But, by the time I got off the horse my feet were even more icy than the ground we had been riding on... an experience, but probably not one I would recommend at this time of year. In fact, speaking with a local guide it sounds like there are only about 100 tourists in the country at the moment, most (and its not many even in high season) pick the summer months to experience the amazing countryside which is Mongolia.

If the food in Russia was a disappointment, then Mongolia again has far exceeded my expectations.... hearty fish soups, Mongolian BBQ, dumplings and lots of fresh eggs. After 5 days of artificial, far too salty junk food on the train its been a welcome relief; and very cheap... beer only 25p a can (oh dear...) and a decent evening meal for 2 pounds. Also a welcome relief after the ridiculous prices in Russia.

A few facts for you: Chinggis Khan ruled Mongolia from 1162-1227 he could be described as the man of his millennium, at that time Mongolia was MASSIVE..... from Lake Baikal to the Great Wall, the entire of SE Asia, much of modern day Russia & central Europe, as far as Turkey and Bulgaria... he even had his sights sets on Egypt, asking the french of all people to help him, and a letter was found not so long ago in the vaults of the Vatican telling the Pope that he was to become a Mongolian subject!! Today Mongolia is still pretty massive really, although suffers from lack of population, there are only 2.5 million Mongolians, half live in Ulaan Baatar, about half a million live abroad and the rest still live the traditional nomadic lifestyle, living in Ger tents. Hum, maybe I was paying attention in the National History Museum :-)

Mongolia is definitely a country I want to come back to.... a fascinating past and definitely an interesting future ahead and with so much to explore, including the Gobi desert which place deserves more than a few days.

Next stop - Back on the train tomorrow, only one night this time and next stop Beijing.

Current ipod tunes: 10,000 Maniacs / Juliet Turner

Current reading Material: Oops.. ran out of books!